Sometimes it’s a matter of conscience to review a restaurant that’s a hidden gem. There’s a temptation to save it from getting too popular, too crowded. But of course, keeping those tables booked is what keeps a place open. It’s only with a bit of reluctance I’m singing the praises of Gokigen Tori.
This quiet spot on Sepulveda, only open for dinner, has been drawing a crowd of devoted (and deliciously satisfied) fans since last spring. Even if you are not a fanatic about Japanese cuisine, the quality of the food and the expertise in preparation makes this some of the best dining available on the west side.
The concept of ‘nose to tail’ that some restaurants focus on animals applies here to the bird; it seems Gokigen Tori makes use of every possible part of a chicken with the exception of the feathers. The thick, flavorful broth used with the delicate ramen noodles surely uses chicken feet. Gizzards and hearts are grilled over binchotan charcoal for smoky flavor that just can’t happen using only a flame.
If you are a sake fan, their premium collection is outstanding. Categories run the range from ‘crisp, dry’ sakes to ‘pure rice goodness.’ Almost all of the sake can be ordered by the glass or the bottle. On multiple visits, I’ve yet to taste one that wasn’t uniquely delightful.
Unless you are booking a seat at the bar for the omakase – highly recommended as way to get a taste of almost everything – it’s best to confer with table mates over what dishes to share. There is a simple cabbage salad with a tangy house dressing that is the yakitori version of a bread bowl; more is always on offer. Particularly with some of the rich sauces, it’s an ideal balance of flavor.
The chicken is the center of the story, but they also serve excellent wagyu beef and outstanding bluefin tuna and freshwater eel. Eating vegan? The veggies dishes are great, from grilled eggplant to mountain yam.
About that omakase; it’s a 15 course meal, so come hungry. But some other time, leave room for dessert. One of the specials I have enjoyed was a unique yuzu cheesecake. Flavors just made for each other, the tart citrus completely at home with the creamy dairy. So in balance, it was Zen.
It’s not a big room, and bookings fill up fast. I know, I’m giving up my chance for an easy walk-in. But food this good deserves to have a line around the block.
CC Foodie
4410 Sepulveda Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90230
Reservations at Open Table
